Ever since my childhood growing up in London, I always knew water, the sea, the ocean would be part of my life.
So I have had several years actually living and working with my sailing boat that I had to sell when I had my son. Now, I find that living close to the ocean and swimming, surfing in it does the trick. Nearly.
I love this pic, from Capbreton Surf Club where you can rent all sorts of long and short boards and organise a few lessons to send you off!
The way of live, the real chore values around surfing are values that I TRY to adhere to. Respect for the elements and towards others, to be humble, to be united, to love as much as you can and to keep your family close and happy.
Maybe one day I will end up in Hawai. That would be a dream. So far though, my life is amazing and that’s what I concentrate on xxxx